Spring/Summer 2025 Paris Couture Week: Bene Gesserit Meets Rococo & Victorian Elegance

Paris Couture Week for Spring/Summer 2025 was nothing short of a visual spectacle, with designers diving deep into history, sci-fi, and pure opulence to craft collections that will undoubtedly shape fashion trends for the year ahead. From the cinematic grandeur of Dune influencing high fashion to the return of Rococo and Victorian extravagance, this season proved that couture is more than just clothing—it’s storytelling through fabric, silhouette, and embellishment.

Gaurav Gupta, Jean Paul Gaultier, Zuhair Murad, Ashi Studios, Christian Dior

Schiaparelli Stole the Show: Luxe Glam at Its Peak

If there was one collection that captured the very essence of haute couture—impeccable tailoring, jaw-dropping craftsmanship, and an air of untouchable luxury—it was Schiaparelli. Daniel Roseberry delivered an absolute masterclass in couture with structured silhouettes that dripped in glamour. The sculptural pieces, adorned with intricate embroidery and gilded details, felt both otherworldly and timeless. The collection was a reminder that couture isn’t just about extravagance—it’s about the kind of craftsmanship that leaves you breathless.

Schiaparelli’s approach to luxury this season felt like a direct response to the current state of the world. With economic uncertainty and global tension at an all-time high, the need for escapism has never been greater. This collection offered a fantasy—an aspirational vision of opulence that stands in stark contrast to reality. In a time when fashion is constantly shifting toward quiet luxury, Schiaparelli made a case for unapologetic glamour.

Ashi Studio’s Playful Extravagance: Camp Done Right

Coming in as a close second was Ashi Studio, a brand that continues to push the boundaries of couture with a tongue-in-cheek approach to luxury. This season, Ashi took camp and turned it into high fashion—introducing dog coats that looked more couture than most ready-to-wear collections, bedazzled cigarettes hanging on chains, and intricate beading that felt straight out of a 1920s Parisian dream. The collection was whimsical, indulgent, and a refreshing take on the often overly serious world of couture.

Ashi Studio’s ability to blend playfulness with craftsmanship is what made this show a standout. While some may dismiss camp as frivolous, in reality, it is an essential counterbalance to the heavy, politically charged undercurrents of today’s fashion landscape. It speaks to a need for joy and theatricality in a world that often feels bleak.

The Return of Rococo and Victorian Grandeur: Dior & Valentino

Fashion is always in conversation with history, and this season, both Christian Dior and Valentino channeled the extravagance of Rococo and the Victorian era, proving that the past still has a firm grip on the future.

Dior’s collection was filled with corseted bodices, full skirts, and delicate lace—elements reminiscent of 18th and 19th-century European aristocracy. The silhouettes spoke of an era when clothing was about power, femininity, and meticulous detail. Meanwhile, Valentino took a more romantic approach, with soft pastels, voluminous gowns, and intricate floral embroidery, creating an ethereal dreamscape that felt straight out of a Marie Antoinette fever dream.

This resurgence of Rococo and Victorian elements isn’t just about aesthetics—it’s a reflection of the world today. In uncertain times, fashion often looks to the past for stability and inspiration. With political tensions, economic shifts, and social movements redefining the cultural landscape, designers are reinterpreting history’s most extravagant periods to remind us of fashion’s ability to endure, evolve, and reimagine.

The Dune Effect: Bene Gesserit Chic at Gaurav Gupta

One of the most unexpected yet thrilling influences this season came from none other than the Dune franchise. The highly anticipated sequel has not only reignited pop culture’s obsession with sci-fi aesthetics but has also permeated high fashion.

Gaurav Gupta’s collection was a prime example of this influence, featuring fluid, draped gowns in metallics, deep jewel tones, and ethereal silhouettes that echoed the mystical allure of the Bene Gesserit. The pieces felt futuristic yet rooted in tradition—reminiscent of ancient civilizations but with an intergalactic edge.

This crossover between cinema and fashion is nothing new, but what makes Dune’s impact so significant is its underlying themes of power, mysticism, and resilience. The Bene Gesserit, with their enigmatic presence and commanding silhouettes, embody a form of femininity that is both ethereal and formidable—a theme that designers seem eager to explore in a world where strength and adaptability are more relevant than ever.

How Paris Couture Week Will Shape 2025’s Fashion Trends

Couture Week is often a preview of the fashion trends that will trickle down into ready-to-wear and mainstream fashion. Based on this season’s collections, here’s what we can expect:

• Opulent Glamour → Expect a return to ultra-luxury in textures, embellishments, and sculptural silhouettes. The quiet luxury trend may take a backseat to more extravagant statement pieces.

• Historical Influence → Corsetry, voluminous skirts, intricate embroidery, and regal details from Rococo and Victorian eras will become more prominent in both high fashion and street style.

• Sci-Fi Meets High Fashion → Dune’s impact will lead to more futuristic, draped silhouettes, muted yet rich color palettes, and a fusion of ancient and modern aesthetics.

• Campy Extravagance → Playful luxury, as seen at Ashi Studio, will bring back fun, over-the-top accessories and whimsical couture elements into mainstream fashion.

Fashion as a Reflection of the World Today

At its core, Couture Week is more than just clothing—it’s a mirror reflecting the state of society. This season’s themes of historical revival, sci-fi mysticism, and indulgent glamour all point to a collective desire for something more, whether that’s escapism, power dressing, or a reimagining of history.

In a time where political instability, economic uncertainty, and cultural shifts dominate global conversations, fashion remains one of the most powerful storytelling tools. Schiaparelli’s armor-like glamour, Dior’s regal elegance, and Gaurav Gupta’s futuristic mysticism all serve as reminders that clothing is never just about fabric—it’s about identity, influence, and the world we wish to create.

As we step into the rest of 2025, one thing is certain—couture is reclaiming its role as the ultimate form of artistic expression, pushing boundaries, and setting the tone for what’s to come.